A day at the Taps brewery in Istanbul

Posted May 14th, 2008 by Conrad

Now that I have more free time I decided I should make the most of it. I have signed myself up to take the GREs and the GMAT so that I can apply to graduate programs. I am also half heartedly looking for a new job, and I am planning some trips within Turkey. This week however, I decided to do something that very few have ever done. I toured the Taps Brewery in Gebze, Istanbul.

I have known the head brewer there for sometime and have been to the Taps restarant on several occasions. The brewery was started as a restaurant with in house brewing in 2001 by an American Brewer named William Kemper. He later moved the brewing to a microbrewery outside of Istanbul and about a year ago turned the reins over to his assistant (my friend), the California born Mark Harvey Kenney, or just Harvey. Harvey has been running the brewery ever since with his Kenyan assistant Daniel. Yesterday, I made the trip all the way to the far stretches of the Asian side of the city with Harvey to spend a day at work with him.

As far as I know, the taps brewery is the only real microbrewery in Turkey. They currently produce, Dunkel, Kolsch, Pilsner, Red Ale, Strong Ale, Stout, Vienna Lager, Golden Ale and Hefeweizen. They also have one beer that has not been released to the general public yet: Taps IPA! Taps is by far the best beer made in Turkey. When I am in the store I buy their bottles if I see them and I go to the restaurant occasionally. However the music in the restaurant (which closed on Friday) is so awful and so loud, that I go there very rarely, and only at Harvey’s invitation. For those of you that are living in Turkey who haven’t had Taps beer, you really must try it. It is very good and better than all the Turkish made and foreign imported beer available in Turkey.

For your viewing pleasure here are the pictures and explanations from my day at Turkey’s one and only craft brewery.

me-on-site-at-the-taps-brewery-in-gebze

That’s me on site at the brewery. I am sitting on the platform between the three tanks where the raw ingredients are mixed and cooked together to form the wort, which later gets mixed with yeast and stored for fermentation. Each of the tanks is stainless steel with temperature sensors that are connected to the master control system for the brewery. Each tank has a hollow shell that is filled with steam to help regulate the temperature. Although a very high-tech and highly automated brewery, careful attention must be paid by the brewer and his assistant.

Taps Istanbul Brewery Control System

It doesn’t look like much, and it seems like this kind of system would be standard, but apparently it’s not. Harvey’s assistant, Daniel, who worked in a brewery in England said a lot of the breweries there don’t have any of this advanced computer technology to control the processes. From this computer you can monitor every tank in the whole brewery, you can control the steam flow in each segment of each tank, you can control the valves in the system and monitor flow rates at various parts of the system. I am sure there is more that you can do, but I wasn’t too interested in the computer.

taps-brewery-istanbul-tank-views

Here are four views of the different tanks. I can’t describe to you in great deal what each one is used for but I can say that the top right one is the raw malt being brought in from the floor above, and mixed with hot water. The bottom right one is the cooked wort being drained into the storage tank for fermentation. I got to see the whole process start to finish and it was quite impressive.

Imported German Hops

These are condensed hops from Germany. They smelled great! Just like a heavily hopped beer. Somewhere in the brewery they had the American Cascade Hops, which give American craft beers their unique flavor. Harvey used them to make his IPA.

the-man-behind-taps-beer

Harvey! That’s the storage room where kegs are kept until they are ready to be shipped. Since it’s a young brewery and there isn’t much of a beer industry in Turkey, they aren’t producing very high quantities yet. On a side note Harvey pointed out to me while we were having lunch at a restarant that he’s usually the only foreigner at that restaurant and he’s always the one wearing workman’s overalls. Everyone else had suits on.

cloudy beer

There is something in the beer that bonds to something else in the beer and forms little chunks. This makes it easier to filter. I didn’t quite catch what chemical was going on, but it did look strange.

harvey-still-at-work-in-the-lab

Harvey at work in the lab. Each batch has to be checked for alcohol content among other things. Harvey hasn’t been able to find distilled water for sale in Turkey so he also uses his lab to distill his own water.

doing-the-yeast-cell-count-to-make-sure-there-is-enough

Using a microscope, I got to count the yeast cell density in the finished product. It’s important to make sure there is enough yeast in the tank before leaving it to ferment. I think this batch was low, but I am not the expert. On a side note, you will notice my ring is a beer bottle opener.

yeast-being-added-inline-from-the-yeast-of-another-tank

Yeast being added to the beer inline on it’s way into the storage tank for fermentation. Since yeast is a living organism, you can take simply take yeast from one tank, and use it to ferment the next tank, and then the next tank and so on.

Beer on it’s way to the fermentation tanks.

This is the outlet for the carbon dioxide produced during fermentation. It keeps the pressure from building up too much.

sipping-a-fresh-unfiltered-taps-ipa

Of course, if you work in a brewery, there is always time to grab a fresh beer straight from the fermentation tank! That’s me holding Turkey’s first every IPA (India pale ale). This is without a doubt my favorite beer. This one wasn’t perfect Harvey admitted, but I thought the taste was good. When it ferments a little more and the carbonation gets up to where it should be, I think it’s going to be a fantastic beer. For now, it’s still sitting in the tank, waiting.

Thank you Harvey for giving me the opportunity to go to work with you. It was great!

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13 Responses to “A day at the Taps brewery in Istanbul”

  1. Matt

    I need a drink. Can you ship some over to Boston!?

  2. conrad

    Sorry, I don’t think they are exporting yet. Guess you’ll have to come to Turkey to if you want to try it.

    On a side note I got prices from Harvey for kegs:

    50 liters keg
    of the (German) Pilsner 155 ytl
    of the other beers 195 ytl

    20 liters keg
    of the (German) Pilsner 65 ytl
    of the other beers 80 ytl

  3. Frank Violi Jr.

    Thanks Conrad that was awesome.

    I’ve known Mark since High School and the man has a gift. He began brewing his own beer at about 16 and I was lucky enough to be one of his friends. Mark is a good example of how to be happy…find something that you love to do and you will never have to work. I have had the chance to sample some of his Tops creations and while it’s flavor is more refined than the old homebrew I miss the sediment in the bottom of the 22′s (the fermentation happened after it was bottled). I can’t wait untill I get the chance to visit. Cheers

  4. Jerome CK

    I just wanted to say i think you are a sexy sexy man.

  5. conrad

    Cheers man.

  6. joel rea

    I just got back from a 2 week trip to Turkey and made an attempt to find Taps. We hired a taxi to cart us across the city and the driver ended up circling a block raising his hands in frustration. We finally stopped where we thought it should be and asked a shop keeper what he knew of Taps. He said the place had closed down a few weeks earlier and so we gave up the hunt. Do you know if this is true or am I an idiot for not trying harder? I did find some Kolsch and Red in a grocery store and felt that the Kolsch was excellent. Back at home I’m on the Taps website but with everything in Turkish it is impossible for me to figure out anything about the current status of the brewery.

    Thanks for your time and response,

    Joel

  7. conrad

    Hi Joel,
    The original Taps restaurant in Nisantisi, Istanbul closed a few months ago. The brewery is redefining it’s business model and are focusing on sales to resorts in the south of turkey and to stores and other bars. I think they still have their own restaurant in Ankara. The restaurant is now officially a franchise so anyone can buy rights to the franchise if they like, and open a restaurant.
    The brewery however is still fully operational and they are rapidly expanding their capacity. They recently increased their fermentation tank capacity by 33% (by volume) with the addition of four new large fermentation tanks.

  8. Julian

    I willbe in Istanbul from September 20-24. Where can I get Taps Beer?

  9. conrad

    Julian, I will put you in touch with Harvey privately via email. He should be able to tell you what restaurants carry Taps beer. Furthermore, you can buy strong ale, red ale and Kolsch in many of the bigger super markets.

  10. John

    A TAPS franchise opened last week in Bebek, Istanbul. They were serving Munchner, Pilsner and Hefeweizen when I visited.

  11. conrad

    Thank you John.

    For those of you interested Harvey has left Taps for personal reasons and is returning to the United States. I think his assistant will step up and be brew master for the brewery.

  12. flavio

    Hi Conrad
    thanks for sharing this with us.
    There is a good chance I will be moving to Istanbul with family in the next few months…I am really keen on gaining a good understanding of the microbrewery/premium beer market in Turkey. Do you have a view on whether the busines model for premium beer (without restaurant/pub) works in Turkey?
    I would be greatful if you could kindly put me in touch via email with the new brew master. If you are still in Istanbul we could even try to catch up on my next visit. All the best

  13. conrad

    I am sorry Flavio but I no longer have any contact with anyone at the Taps brewery. You could go to their website and contact them directly. I am sure they would be more than happy to address your questions.

    As for how successful premium beer can beer in Turkey? There are 80 million people living in Turkey and only one craft brewery in the whole country. Imports are heavily restricted by the Efes monopoly of beer distribution. There is therefore a tremendous opportunity to create a home grown premium beer label in Turkey. It just has to be done right. But that’s just my opinion.